Ìý
I'm super lucky to travel to Italy multiple times a year. For work! I essentially won the lottery by on under the leadership of the amazing Ian D'Agata. While headquarters are in Barolo, we travel all over Italy.
Our most recent wine mission took us to the lesser-known region of Marche. If you like Tuscany, you'll love Marche. Located to the east across the Apennines, it has always been a bit off the main drag which may explain why even today it is less travelled. Getting there from Tuscany by train took an entire day. But it's worth the trek.
Like Tuscany, the region extends from the mountains across a series of picturesque hills which eventually collapse into a gorgeous coastline. The beach at Portonovo is one of Italy's most beautiful. Marche also has the right mix of sleepy and vibrant towns along with an incredible quality of sunlight that intensifies everything. And there is a massive network of fascinating caves carved out of limestone.
All ofthe above actually contributes to the character and quality of the region's wines (which is very high overall). Marche's calling card is Verdicchio. Alas, the wines don't have the same cachet as Italy's most famous exports, yet Verdicchio is one of its most interesting white grapes.
Pronounced ver-DEE-kyoh, it gives wines that are very crisp, lemony and herbal with intriguing hallmarks of almond and fennel. Though most examples are aged in stainless steel, some see a judicious amount of oak making for a stimulating range of expressions.
The diversity of Verdicchio is further demonstrated by its two distinct geographical denominations: Castelli di Jesi (which translates as castles of Jesi) and Matelica (pronounced very similarly to the heavy metal band). Jesi is the Verdicchio that sees the sea; Matelica is the Verdicchio of the mountains.
Jesi stretches across hills looking out towards the Adriatic Sea and the vineyards enjoy a steady marine breeze. It's quite a vast zone but the wines tend to be fruity and floral in nature with notes of peach and pear joining Verdicchio's signature traits.
The , ‘Casal di Serra’ Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore DOC ($17.99 BC Liquor Stores) is an affordable staple that I have happily recommended plenty of times.
A step up in complexity, concentration and persistence is the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC Classico Superiore ($34-39 Liberty Wine Merchants, Marquis Wine Cellars)
This was one of my favourite discoveries during my visit last year. I was thrilled to find that one of our savvy importers was already bringing it in.
Then there is . Not just an historic producer, it's truly one of the top. I recommend both the2014 Bucci, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC Classico ($33 New District) and the ($56 BC Liquor Stores). The Riserva is one of Italy's greatest whites. I was treated to a vertical going back to 1992 and (collector alert) I was blown away by just how well this grape can age.
The Matelica zone is 10 times smaller than Jesi. Completely cut off from the sea, it sits at higher altitudes breathing in the alpine air. The wines are penetrating and powerful with a steely mineral backbone and often nuances of mint.
The , Verdicchio di Matelica DOC ($30-38ÌýKits Wine Cellar, Village Liquor Store, Liberty Wine Merchants and Marquis Wine Cellars)Ìýis one of the few Matelica wines available in BC but offers an excellent representation of the area.
Really, I encourage you to try any Verdicchio you can get your hands on.
To Marche, I say!
• Prices exclusive of taxes.
