Doug Stephen isn鈥檛 your average chef. Before becoming chef/proprietor at (formerly Merchant鈥檚 Oyster Bar), Stephen was mainly working front of house at fine dining establishments in Toronto and here in 麻豆传媒映画at Cork and Fin.
In 2012, along with owner Francis Regio, Stephen opened Merchant鈥檚 Oyster Bar on Commercial Drive, serving up smart wines by the glass, along with cocktails, local beers, charcuterie and locally sourced dishes dreamed up by chef David Jackman.
The concept was a hit, and while the restaurant never boasted the long lines typical of Yaletown and Gastown, it developed a large and steady clientele of regulars 鈥� mainly locals and industry peers 鈥� who would crowd the bar or 24 seats inside for platters of oysters, Pemberton steaks and innovative vegetable-focused dishes.
Part of the appeal was likely due to Stephen鈥檚 focus on maintaining a welcoming vibe that meshed with the Commercial Drive ethos.
鈥淚 worked [in Toronto] at a restaurant that catered mainly to the tourist crowd,鈥� says Stephen in a phone interview. 鈥淚 was there during the SARS crisis and saw the impact of ignoring the local clientele. We took a huge hit and I said 鈥榥ever again.鈥� From day one [at Merchant鈥檚] we set out to be a neighbourhood spot.鈥�
How? What鈥檚 easily visible is Stephen鈥檚 鈥� and his team鈥檚 鈥� investment in getting to know the people who walk through the door. After David Jackman moved on a couple years ago, Stephen took over the kitchen, but that doesn鈥檛 stop him from still making the rounds of the tables several times each night, talking to the customers, asking how they鈥檙e doing, introducing himself, and learning names.
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The room is busy from the time it opens, but peaks after 10 p.m., when industry starts to trickle in post-shift and locals stop by for drinks and nibbles post-event. Last call in the kitchen is usually late, around midnight, and reservations are accepted for dinner and weekend brunch.
In parallel with the demographics of Commercial Drive, the restaurant attracts young 20-somethings, couples, families, singles and everyone in between. The menu, like the neighbourhood, is constantly evolving. There aren鈥檛 any more oysters (hence the name change), but local seafood is a regular, like the recent ling cod with butternut squash and beets.
鈥淥ur focus is based on what we receive from our suppliers and then working it out from there,鈥� explains Stephen. 鈥淵ou could call it a Pacific Northwest interpretation of all the different cultures that are part of Canada, expressed through our eyes. We take advantage of all different styles of cooking.鈥�
Stephen also likes to reinterpret his own food experiences, such as with a recent dessert that was a brilliant take on a Reese鈥檚 peanut butter cup 鈥� a childhood favourite. Missing only the sickly sweetness of the original, this pie-style dark chocolate dessert featured an organic peanut butter centre and was topped with Chantilly cream.
A lemon posset dessert is sublime: a bowl full of lemon curd topped with dried coronation grapes from Stoney Paradise, slivered pistachios and dots of strawberry puree.
A special of braised venison is served over a bed of cauliflower puree topped with pickled and roasted cauliflower chunks, and mustard seeds. It鈥檚 rich, tangy, creamy and earthy all at once.
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If the fried chicken is on the brunch menu, don鈥檛 even think twice. This 鈥渉ot鈥� chicken is some of the best in town and can be ordered with or without the spicy sauce.
Stay tuned in the next few months for an addition to the family. Stephen鈥檚 wife and partner, Lindsey Mann, will be spearheading a new fast-casual burger and chicken joint, tentatively named The DL Burger and Chicken Shack. The 鈥淒L鈥� is a reference to Merchant鈥檚 鈥渙n the down-low鈥� offerings of their chicken and 鈥淢erch鈥� burger on the late-night menu, as well as Stephen and Mann鈥檚 first initials.
If it鈥檚 half as good as Merchant鈥檚, your new neighbourhood fave is a given.
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Anya Levykh is a food, drink and travel writer who covers all things ingestible. Find her on Twitter and Instagram @foodgirlfriday.
